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CRUISES: Holland America’s Hawaiian Islands

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

For many of us the perfect vacation is the tropical island: white-sand beaches, warm weather, waving palms, the bluest skies. The Hawaiian archipelago is a classic example of such bewitchment but our 50th state has several islands each singing its own particular song of seduction. How are newcomers to choose?

The cognoscenti, naturally, have their own preferences -- with Maui a strong contender even though Oahu gets more traffic: six and a half million visitors a year. The Asian financial flu hurt Hawaii's economy but tourism has come back. The state remains a popular destination for many reasons: the language, currency and services are familiar but the culture and terrain are so different we know we're on vacation.

Those making an initial visit to the islands and wanting to decide on their own favorites now have a choice in how they get there beyond being stuffed like sardines in a 747 full of irritable passengers all using frequent flyer miles. In 2000, the four major islands can be visited on Holland America's 55,451 gross-ton ms Statendam, cruising round trip from San Diego.

The ship, built in 1993 with 10 passenger decks, carries 1266 passengers and a crew of 602. Holland America was founded in 1873 and now has 14 vessels, enough ships to keep one on the West Coast year round. The company has received "the World's Best Cruise Value" award from the World Ocean & Cruise Liner Society for the last decade and has a very loyal following, no doubt partly because it offers substantial discounts to repeat passengers.

Factors that might bore young passengers -- ten days of a 15-day cruise spent entirely at sea might be perfect for older travelers seeking a restful vacation. Sure, the cabins have telephones, but at the prices cruise lines charge who's gonna call ya?

Everything is laid on: top quality shows every night in the 600 seat show room put on by a talented cast, two recently released movies every day in the 250 seat theater, a comfortable library well stocked with books, a health spa with updated equipment, many optional activities and, of course, meals galore from elegant dining to almost nonstop feeding for gluttons. Indeed as the comedian said on the first night's show, "Welcome to your 15-day meal!" And as the passengers laughed, he added: "Anyone here from out of town?

Health enthusiasts find the 720 foot-long ship ideal for walking: four times around the Promenade deck equals one mile. Free tai chi and dance lessons are conducted daily as are stretch and relax classes and the inevitable shuffleboard. Table tennis, putting and golf chipping events compete with less active activities like enrichment lectures on the ocean and the ports of call. The second day at sea, for example, had 51 separate activities listed, all of which could be ignored by any person seeking rest and privacy.

Hans Dernison, then the hotel manager of the ms Statendam didn't feel he had to defend so many days at sea. "Our passengers love our choices," he said. "We get a 60 to 80 percent repeat business on this ship, many people have sailed 20 times on the various Statendams and one couple has cruised 60 times with Holland America."

Dernison gave credit to his staff for this success as do most hotel managers. "Those who haven't cruised before tend to choose their first cruise by price," he said, "but repeat passengers always compare destinations and look at ships. Ours come out well in industry surveys for crew friendliness and service. Our stewards are all Indonesian, our bar waiters Filipino and our officers Dutch and American. Our staff is one large corporate family -- you won't find any civil wars going on in our crew deck even on long cruises."

Long cruises tend to cost more and appeal to those passengers with more time so it's not surprising affluent retired persons flock to them. Holland America is endeavoring to entice younger passengers (such as the age group 40 to 65) to its ships and some of its shore excursions are chosen to offer the activities and adventures younger passengers seek. Hawaiian choices vary from the energetic: hiking the rainforest in the Koolau Mountains of Oahu or kayaking through the Huleia National Wildlife refuge on Kauai to the more sedentary: an Old Lahaina Luau on Maui, "a celebration buffet with lei greeting of Hawaii's royal past," or leisurely drives, in Kauai, up a twisting road to Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," or, on the Big Island, past the Painted Church of Kona, the Place of Refuge National historic Park and Kealakekua Bay where Captain Cook lost his life. Excursion prices vary from expensive for a Circle of Fire helicopter flight over Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island to nominal for the Sugar Cane Train with its singing conductor on Maui.

Two particular events on the Statendam unique to viewing Hawaii from the sea occurred, first, along the southeast shore of the Big Island where, even in the dark of night, passengers could see red lava sliding for the shore, and smoke hanging over Kilauea as the world's most active volcano kept erupting as it had since 1983. The second special thrill was sailing abeam the Na Pali Cliffs on the northwest side of Kauai past the towering spires and pinnacles of this legendary wilderness with all its hidden valleys, waterfalls and caves. "You can't see the Na Pali Cliffs and not be spiritually moved," said one of the ship's officers.

Asking the Statendam crew what you should see on the islands got varying answers. Said one staff member: "Take in the North Shore of Oahu with its 20-foot high waves. Awesome!" Said another, "I prefer the North Shore of Kauai overlooking Hanalei Bay where they filmed South Pacific. You gaze out to sea and, in real life, you hear Bali Ha calling." Said a third, "Rent a car and drive from Hilo to the Volcano House above Kilauea's crater. Have a cocktail at sunset. You'll see colors you never knew existed."

Holland America (877 SAIL HAL), also owns an Alaskan land company Westours. For best prices, say the experts, book early.

Hawaiian Convention Visitors Bureau (800 GO HAWAII) offers a 122 page vacation planner. Hawaiian weather: temperatures in the Kau (summer) months of May to October are 85 degrees (air) and 80 degrees (water) and in the Ho'oilo (winter) months of November to April are 78 degrees (air) and 74 degrees (water). Although Hawaii has only two seasons it's a 12-month tourist destination. High season in the resorts is December 21 through March 31. "That's actually our rainy season," said a hotel publicist cheerfully, "but everywhere else in America it's snowing!" 

 
 

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