Dijon, France: An Ancient City in an Ancient Land

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

Our favorite North American cities seem to be those with a history: Boston, Santa Fe, Montreal, San Antonio, Quebec City and, of course, San Francisco. Age is a virtue. Travelers again considering Europe -- despite its expense and the horrifying fall of the US dollar -- might recall Europe's two oldest great nations are Britain and France. "Spain did not come along until the 15^th century; and Italy and Germany until the 19^th century," says historian James O. Goldsborough. "Russia until Peter the Great was Asia."

France has resumed efforts to welcome North Americans. Much of the recent French-U.S. rancor was the result of arrogant politicians in both countries; it wasn't felt by the people. And Americans ready to go back and practice their few words of atrocious French will find, as always, a land that knows how to live.

Dijon, the capital city of Burgundy and one of France's oldest cities, is tailor-made for tourists whose needs are a moderately priced hotel with a central location and a good restaurant, a city small enough to be bite sized and easily explored on foot, with a convenient tourism office with superb maps and walking guide books in English – and, certainement, easy access from Paris.

How easy is shown by the people at Rail Europe. One of France's fast trains takes you from Paris in 100 minutes to a city whose documentation goes back to 1336. Dijon's the right size -- big enough to offer its 150,000 residents, 25,000 students and untold visitors the benefits of a large city without its inconveniences -- and if you choose a lodging like the Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge (5, Rue Michelet, 21000 Dijon) all the medieval architecture, museums, restaurants and shops lie around you.

You might want to contact the Office de Tourisme first at Place Darcy 21000 a ten-minute walk from the hotel. Ask specifically for the 26-page, booklet "Dijon, the Owl's Trail," possibly the best guide ever published in any country for a walking tour of a city.

Thus armed and in a city not known for crime you are ready to explore. Across from your hotel stands Saint-Philibert, a church to remind you the age of this "Town of a Hundred Churches." Saint-Philibert was built in the middle of the 12^th century. That's not old. On your side of the street stands Saint-Benigne, a Benedictine abbey back in the year 1007 and its crypts and vaults hold relics like wood carvings and tombstones going back to the first century AD. If walking for a few minutes has created the urge to sit down like the locals for a coffee or a cognac, walk a farther two blocks to the Place Francois-Rude, a square constructed in 1904 in the middle of a medieval city. A statue of a grape harvester tops its fountain. A block beyond, sprawls the covered market surround by outdoor restaurants so typically French they almost seem a cliché.

Dijon's 13^th century Notre Dame cathedral is a mere block to the east, its façade spawning rows and rows of gargoyles waiting, says a guide, to drop down on any exiting peasants who were not devout enough in their morning prayers a moment before. The peasants were probably more scared of the power of the four Great Dukes of Burgundy, whose palace lies next door, put up by the first duke, Philip the Bold, in 1364. He was called the Bold because he fought the English so bravely at the Battle of Poitiers. His son, John the Fearless, got his name because in, as ever, the perverted nature of politics he fought with the English against the King of France. The next duke, Philip the Good was named, said the guide, because he was "good with the ladies" siring 15 illegitimate children. The last duke, Charles the Bold, was called that in derision; he lost his life and the kingdom to Louis XI. All cause for reflection as travelers sip their glass of wine, add, what else? Dijon mustard to their croque monsieur and live the good life in France.