Sedona, Arizona: Breathtaking Natural Beauty

Story and Photography by
Teresa & Michael Anderson 

  

A two-hour drive north of Phoenix, Arizona, the desert seems as empty as your gas tank. You turn a corner and suddenly the landscape changes from beige to brilliant red. It's overwhelming. Rock monuments rise like painted backdrops in a fantasy film. It's Sedona, and the feeling is indescribable.

Sedona, a destination you have to experience for yourself, is a place in transition. Large hotels are moving in, as the railroads did throughout the Old West -- and corporate settlers can't be far behind. But unlike Park City with its ski slopes or Las Vegas with its casinos, Sedona itself is the main attraction. Its appeal is in its seclusion and its sheer beauty.

Sedona boasts several luxury bed and breakfast inns, none more peaceful and personal than Casa Sedona (800-525-3756). Bob and Donna Marriott were our hosts, and by the end of our stay they were our friends. Their unique 16-room inn sits at the foot of spectacular Thunder Mountain. Start your morning at breakfast with amazing views in the back courtyard. End your day in a hot tub listening to the coyotes. The Marriotts had taken care of everything in between for us and are now enjoying relaxation on their own. They have sold their inn to a couple Paul and Connie Schwartz who had owned two B & Bs in Florida, the last one being the celebrated Inn on Charlotte Street in St. Augustine. “Why move from such a great little town?” Paul is asked. “We wanted a larger B & B, we wanted to be West of the Mississippi, and…” he swings his hands across the vista of Thunder Mountain, “…and we wanted this!”

Art and Appetites

Old Sedona is found in the upscale arts and crafts village of Tlaquepaque where 40 art galleries offer more than red dirt T-shirts. Bring your wallet, as things tend to be a bit more expensive than uptown. During the day the numerous courtyards fill with local New Age musicians or native Hopi craft artisans and performers.

One of the most elegant restaurants is Rene at Tlaquepaque (928-282-9225) opened in 1977 and revitalized by Deborah Leatherwood and chef Walter Paulsen in 1996. Don't be fooled by the lace and white tablecloths; you can have a casual lunch on the patio or enjoy a romantic dinner inside. Try the rack of lamb or, if you're more adventuresome, the tenderloin of antelope.

Getting Around

Explore Sedona with Red Rock Jeep Tours in uptown Sedona (800-848-7728). There's no better introduction to the geology, history, and scenery of Sedona. Seven people can be strapped into their custom jeeps. Tours last up to 3 hours and can include horseback riding. If you insist on doing the driving, take Route 89A North to a natural water slide, Slide Rock, or continue on to Flagstaff and the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Or get physical and explore the hundreds of miles of hiking and mountain bike trails.

At the end of the day, head to the top of airport road. Bring a bottle of wine and a camera as the sun, in minutes, casts shadows across a panorama that once took settlers days to cross. Be sure to indulge in one last treat: pecan-encrusted local trout or spiced pork tenderloin at the Heartline Café (928-282-0785) which was opened in 1991 by Chuck and Phyllis Cline. They earned their stripes in the ultra-competitive New York culinary scene. The food embraces the best of southwestern spices without being enveloped by it, and the patio is as romantic as it gets in glorious Red Rock country.