St. Martin: Europe in the Caribbean

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

In its time Tin Pan Alley tempted travelers to the tropics with its Two On An Island-like melodies. Hollywood in its halcyon days also gave moviegoers the romance of cerulean-blue skies and powder-white sands even as nations readied for war. However, James Bond movies later hinted that Caribbean islands might have more dangers than Ursula Andress arising from the surf. Indeed, recurrent hurricanes and militant nationalism, offshore illegal banking and drug smuggling have all tended to tarnish today's image of the Caribbean.

"Yes," says an islander, "the Caribbean has its share of crime and places you should avoid after dark-- but it's no better or worse than New York City. The same rules apply: don't flash your money or wear expensive jewelry, use your common sense -- and since most hotels offer safes in the guest rooms, use 'em." That said, the Caribbean remains one of the most attractive vacation areas for Americans, it's close by and they speak English; many shops have bargains and most stores accept the Canadian or U.S. dollar.

St. Martin less than an hour by plane from San Juan has the additional charm of offering three cultures: the native one, the Dutch commercial aspects of the south side of the island, Sint Maarten, and the more languid French lifestyle of the north side. Although the French capital of Marigot can be busy at times, Grand Case 20 minutes by cab beyond it still clings to the relaxed ambiance of what is essentially a French village occupied by Caribbean islanders.

In the midst of all this, on the water's edge sits arguably the Caribbean's best family resort, Grand Case Beach Club. Its 72 rooms have kitchens and easy beach access and its many water sports activities are free to guests. Says Stephen Wright, its General Manager, and an Englishman who comes from a family of five generations of country doctors, "We benefit from the French influence. Many Caribbean towns offer one good restaurant in one good hotel but, within a ten-minute walk of my resort, you can find 50 great restaurants all equal to the best you might find in a major American city."

A leisurely walk easily proves his point. Chef Thierry Delaunay is readying his tables at the Hibiscus restaurant as visitors stroll by and farther down the street Chez Martine, a small inn with a great restaurant, is opening its doors for other flavors of France at similarly reasonable prices. Marigot, itself, has Le Plongeoir specializing in, what else, French cuisine and the marina 100 yards away has a brasserie La Belle Epoque whose most popular dish is, of all things, pizza. Such inexpensive fair lets you splurge at the Mall Le West Indies nearby with its duty-free, high-end Parisian fashionable shops and the crowded store that sells all its watches and items for U.S. $10. (Pay cash or your credit card gets charged 10 Euros.)

In the Dutch side of the island, dining choices vary from, at the Philipsburg pier, the simple Beach Bar & Grill where you can sip a beer, watch the sunset and chat with owner Cornelius de Weever whose son is a local pediatrician to, at the Atlantis World Casino, the elegant Le Montmartre where you simply flop back in your chair and sigh with self-indulgent satisfaction having discovered that the best French restaurant on the island is on the Dutch side, Sint Maarten.

The chef owner of Le Montmartre also runs the little Sunset Café at the Grand Case Beach Club so guests there don't have to farther than the beach . Those wanting a more private gourmet meal should sign up for a sail on the catamaran Stargazer run by a couple, Holger and Britta who know all the special places around this 32-square mile island, an island so small it's not always found on Caribbean maps.