Tucson, Arizona: Small Town America

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

Those living in Tucson, Arizona’s second biggest city, take pains to point out it’s not Phoenix. Compared to that sprawling neighbor 60 miles north and now the fifth largest metropolis in the United States, Tucson’s distances are certainly less, the mountains closer, the highways not so crowded, the air fresher and the locals just a tad more relaxed. In addition, Tucson has a small-town feel and a center that’s a delightful walk.

Old Town shows a few statues of worthies on horseback but there’s not really a Western ambiance here. The Hispanic heritage dominates. El Presideo Historic District, listed in the National Register of Historic Places is a comfortable walk just north of the Barrio Historico. Many of the city’s 150 Mexican restaurants lie nearby including the flamboyant and famous Café Poca (520-622-6400) whose owner-chef was former model Suzana Davila. The Hotel Congress where John Dillinger was captured is still a hotel and its bar now a hip watering hole for locals (520-792-6366). Don’t miss the eclectic exhibits of the Tucson Museum of Art, the impressive mansions on Main Avenue and the shops of Old Town Artisans in what used to be the Presidio stables on Telles Street.

Other attractions run from the Pima Air and Space Museum to Old Tucson Studios. Pima, home to more than 250 aircraft that represent America’s aviation history, has displays of a Mercury space capsule, rescue helicopters emblazoned with Red Cross signs and some of the first versions of Air Force One. Old Tucson Studios, the location of many films made in the early, unsophisticated days of the movies, has made a comeback after a calamitous fire. Old Tucson is fun. Just don’t get shot.

The Mission San Xavier del Bac, the still active Franciscan church, “the White Dove of the Desert,” lies nine miles south of the city. Its foundations were laid in 1700 and its centuries-old frescoes depict the impact of the church on the first Americans.

A clearer understanding of the American Southwest comes from visiting Tucson’s more natural places. Sabino Canyon, for example, a small ravine that burrows its hiking trails into the Coronado Forest, is conveniently reached by a 45-minute tram trip to the head of the canyon for an easy descent on foot. If that seems like too much hard work try, breakfast in the tea room at Tohono Chul Park, a 50-acre oasis in the middle of the city, a former private estate now dedicated to helping visitors appreciate the Sonoran Desert. The Arizona Sonora Desert Museum on the southwest side of the city offers a more detailed perspective with over 300 species of live animals and 1300 species of indigenous plants along two miles of paths.

Eating suggestions for families with children include the lunch theater at the Hidden Valley Inn (520-299-4941) with its Gay Nineties Western atmosphere. Visitors seeking where sophisticated locals dine will head for Jonathan’s Tucson Cork (520-296-1631) where chef Jonathan Landeen presents aged beef and fresh seafood. Romantics will make reservations for a Sinatra Sunday at Fuego (520-886-1745)) where the talents of chef Alan Zeman are combined with the delightful performances of Paul Elia who warbles tunes like Old Blue Eyes himself.

Where are you going to stay? There are so many choices but the resort that’s been for 20 years what Sinatra would sing Top the Heap is Loews Ventana Canyon Resort. Even in a city with many upscale hotels, Loews stands out as the resort that offers it all: eight tennis courts, two swimming pools, two championship golf courses, and five restaurants including the Ventana Room with its magnificent panoramas of the city lights and views the three mountain ranges that surround Tucson and the kitchen where chef Philippe Trosch works the magic Zagat calls the best in the American Southwest. There are not many hotels in America where guests come and stay just for the restaurant.