Bermuda: The Land Over The Rainbow

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

When L. Frank Baum sat writing The Wizard of Oz in a turret above Harrington Sound in Bermuda, his window overlooked a vista more idyllic than any he described in his masterpiece. Bermuda is truly the land over the rainbow. And there really is a golden pot of satisfaction for visitors to this charming island when they meet the friendly Bermudians.

"The Isle of Devils," the ancient mariners called the remote and unapproachable dots of coral, but no such description could be applied today. The 66,000 lucky souls who dwell as residents in Bermuda seem devoid of the pressure-cooker stresses of the mainland. There are few mental health problems and the gentle climate cushions physical strains.

Doctors at the King Edward VII Memorial Hospital have told us how the health of tourists improves as they enjoy their vacations. Emphysema and asthma sufferers thrive in the fresh, clean air. The water supply is fresh rain water, and there are no tropical diseases like malaria. "Bermuda is another world," chant the calypso singers. That's the difference that makes a vacation there so enchanting. Time has moved slowly on those small coral islands, despite their proximity to the United States and sea routes of Western Europe. To forestall on ravages of progress, there is a self-imposed policy to reduce the impact of the 21st century. Only small cars are permitted in Bermuda, one to a family, and none are available for rental. The 140 miles of public roads are winding, and the speed limit is 20 miles per hour. There are no slums and no neon signs, no cacophony of noise. The islands might almost have heard Oliver Wendell Holmes when he said that "silence, like a poultice, comes to heal the blows of sound."

And tourists do come to be healed, from nearly 100,000 a year in 1956 to more than 660,000 in 2007. All are following the Gulf Stream to a vacation spot with no parallel: a bustling island with quiet deserted coves and modern, even opulent hotels served by quaint 17th-century streets; flashing brilliant, almost painful colors; sand, as white and as soft as flour; coral, as pink as sugar frosting; breezes whispering, water slapping quietly on rocky shores, roadways breathing perfume from their floral edges, village streets fringed by stone; and coral cottages brightly painted as if by Utrillo.

Bermuda has it all. It also has that bone-jarring Bermuda experience -- the motorized bicycle. It has, at times, stinging rain, a godsend to an island with no streams, lakes, or potable wells. It has the most expensive hamburgers in the northern hemisphere and (or so it seems) -- the most perplexed tourists of any resort. The confusion starts with uncertainty as to location. Ask any strolling shopper on Front Street in Hamilton, "Where are we, where is Bermuda?" The reply is likely to be, erroneously, "We are 50 miles or so off the coast of Florida." Press for details and you'll get a shrug and a bland "I don't know; we flew." Bermuda is, in fact, 568 miles east of Cape Hatteras in North Carolina; it is the most northern of all coral islands, and after St. Helena, to which the British exiled Napoleon, the second most isolated inhabited island in the world.

About 100 million years ago, a volcano erupted to create an island which gradually eroded to sea level. Only about 20 square miles are above water, and, traditionally, Bermuda is regarded as 365 islands -- one for each day of the year -- some of which have been joined by man. Only about 20 of the islands are inhabited and many of the others are mere rocks. The reef is very shallow, and with the dazzling clean sand and the clear water, it creates the incredible turquoise colors in the sounds. Beyond the reef, the sea suddenly deepens to 2,500 fathoms.

Although Bermuda is always pampered by the warm current from the Gulf of Mexico, summer is the favorite time to visit. There are really two seasons: winter and summer. The weeks separating the two seasons can favor either the past season or the one to come. January, February, and March are usually the wettest and least dependable months. There is no snow and no fog: with an annual daily sunshine average of 7.1 hours and temperatures seldom over 90°F. heat stroke is unknown. Despite the lush vegetation, there is no hay fever, since the brisk breezes blow allergens out to sea. Hurricane Fabian was certainly a disaster in 2003 but Bermuda has had few hurricanes in the last 20 years. Fortunately, the spawning ground for those catastrophes is 1,000 miles to the south. There is no fall in Bermuda, as there are always some trees in bloom. The slopes, roadways, and gardens are a blaze of color.

The sports and activities are about what you would expect for an island resort. Fishing is year-long, with the best months May through November. Common are the bonefish, tuna, marlin, rainbow runner, little tunny, and finally the fish that drives many crazy -- the gray snapper, the wily creature believed by the International Oceanographic Foundation to have one of the highest IQs among fish.

But, of course, Bermuda -- with more golf courses than fast food outlets -- is golf Mecca to many enthusiasts: The island with nine golf courses in 21 square miles claims the most golf courses per square mile in the world. Swimming, snorkeling, scuba, and water skiing are all available: there are 80 sandy beaches in Bermuda. Visibility underwater has been recorded to 200 feet due to lack of pollution and the bright light. Treasure hunting by scuba is a favorite sport and, in contrast with other vacation areas, has brought results. Lying on the 200-square mile reef area of Bermuda are believed to be more than 500 ships. Most lie in shallow 25-40 feet of water and 120 have already been identified. Terry Tucker, a local diver, broke surface in 1955 holding an emerald and gold cross worth S100,000 then. He had found the 1594 wreck San Pedro. Harry Cox, another Bermudian, found $250,000 of treasure in 24 feet of water.

There is another treasure harvested by the islanders, greater than the million dollars of antiques taken from the sea. It is the more than $400 million dollars annually spent by tourists. This created a boom which gave the island residents one of the highest standards of living in the world. After 9/11 tourism fell off significantly as Bermuda, despite its ties to Europe, relies heavily on its proximity to the East coast of the United States

What To See In Bermuda

Suggestions for Bermuda enjoyment depend on your interests: golf, water sports, scuba and fishing are easily arranged at any hotel. Despite the small size of the island, there is surprising variety.

Most visitors spend at least one day shopping in Hamilton, an old city incorporated in 1795 and still showing its history. Front Street is lined on one side by towering cruise ships at dock, and on the other by stores filled with the best imported china, woolens, jewelry, leather goods, and even liquor. City Hall, Bermuda Cathedral, the Bermuda Library, and the Museum of Bermuda History are all within just a few blocks. While in the capital city, take a bay cruise; it is the way to learn the lore of the island.

What's your pleasure for dinner, a Parisian bar or an English pub? Our family favorites always were the Hog Penny which is a vivid reminder of an old London victual house, and was the inspiration for the Bull & Finch Pub in Boston, itself the inspiration for the TV series “Cheers.” Stop at Baxter's Bermuda Book Store on Queen Street for a great collection of British paperbacks and books about Bermuda.

Another day, visit St. George and the 17th century on the east side of the island. To get there, use the excellent public transportation system. There is less bustle here, the first capital of the island, but it has its own personality and is less expensive. St. George's history goes back to Sir George Somers' 1609 shipwreck, which inspired Shakespeare to write The Tempest. On the way back from St. George, stop and dine on the South Shore at the famous Swizzle Inn, which originated the rum swizzle drink.

Reserve a whole day for the South Shore beaches, each one its own world of black rocks, azure skies, turquoise waters, and pink sands. Horseshoe Bay is our favorite. It has everything, including a small hidden beach, which looks like a landscaped scene straight from Jules Verne. There is even a concealed snack bar-at U.S. prices. In the evening, while you are in the southwest part of Bermuda, take in a show and dine at one of the luxury hotels like the Southampton Princess. The best steel band on the island, however, performs at the Clayhouse Inn on the North Shore.

You will not find Bermuda a great island for walking, as the roads are too dangerous, but a stroll along the South Shore with a visit to Gibb's Hill Lighthouse should be part of your vacation. From this, the oldest cast-iron lighthouse in the world and Bermuda's highest point, you have a magnificent view of the island.

What It Will Cost

Bermuda somehow balances the low cost of flying the short distance from the east coast of the United States with the really high expense of island prices for food and accommodations. Bermuda is expensive. A Bermudian responded to discussion about costs with a flashing smile. "We all come from pirates," he said, "The tourists are our life blood."

Visitors who do not wish to be exsanguinated learn the ropes and with each return visit develop the sophistication necessary to get the maximum benefit from a Bermuda vacation. It does appear that Bermuda caters mostly to couples and honeymooners. There is little financial break for the extra family member. Most hotels listed with travel agents wish you to take at least MAP (Modified American Plan breakfast and dinner) and give a very poor discount from their MAP rates if you delete meals and take EP (European Plan -- no meals).

As in Puerto Rico and Hawaii, most of the large hotels stand like small cities some distance from other facilities and do not have inexpensive family restaurants near them. A family on vacation, therefore, needs transportation, but there are only motorized cycles available. Each cycle will go about 75 miles with one gallon of gas in its 50 cc-20 mph engine. Regular pedal bicycles are available but the hills are surprisingly steep for so small an island and the roads are so narrow and winding that pedal cycles on the highways are probably dangerous. Taxis are not expensive.

The moped may be hired legally by any tourist over the age of 16; it is not necessary to have a United States driving license. Brief instructions are given, and most normal people develop the skills within a few minutes to take an extra passenger.

Helmets -- provided by the rental company -- are compulsory, and you can spot the tourists in Hamilton by their headgear. Ride with attention to vehicles in front and ignore what's behind you. You are, in fact, kept safe by the never ending courtesy of local Bermudian drivers, who are themselves bound to the islands' 20 mph speed limit. If it's been some years since you've been on any kind of bicycle, pedal around the block a few times before you leave home.

Accommodations. If the fun of a vacation for you is to lie in a luxury hotel, pampered by splendid food and charming, genuinely pleasant staff, then you've come to the right spot. But, the true Bermuda lovers tend to use their first vacation on the island to scout out places for their second. There are many spots with prices as low as what you'd spend for a motel room back home. There are plenty of tourist beds on the island and not all are expensive. However, arriving without some sort of reservation is unwise, even off-season.

What To Bring

Bring a pair of flat shoes or sneakers for walking and for moped driving. Pack a thin nylon wind breaker; use drip-dry and cotton clothes. You will need the inevitable sunglasses, suntan oil and extra memory cards for your digital camera. It is a photographer's heaven – test your camera before you leave and believe your light metering. The light is much brighter than seems possible.