Bangkok, the Jewel in Thailand’s Crown

Story and photography by
Eric Anderson & Nancy Allen 

 

At a time when much of the world is homogenized -- and when most of South East Asia seems intent on embracing American culture -- it’s refreshing to visit Thailand and still find the true Asian experience. Visitors can still wander wide-eyed like school teacher Anna Leonowens when she came to the royal court in 1862 although her book, Anna and the King of Siam is now thought full of self-serving inaccuracies.

Bangkok, the capital, though Buddhist has been the regional melting pot for many races and religions for centuries. Buddhism’s acceptance of others makes its sunny reception of visitors delightful enough for Thailand to be called “The Land of 65 Million Smiles.”

It’s also the land of 1000 different species of orchids and of 7000 elephants, 140 of them living contentedly in the Elephant Conservation Center 60 miles north of Bangkok. The preserve is owned and personally run by wealthy businessman Kukrit Kharwlamai. “I bought an elephant for my daughter for her seventh birthday and it grew on me,” he explains looking fondly around his river bank preserve.

A few miles away lies the World Heritage Site of Ayuthaya, the nation’s capital for 400 years, its population three million at a time when London had 50,000. Nearby lies the Temple of Victory built in Cambodian style to reflect Ayuthaya’s victory over the Cambodians and later destroyed by the Burmese in 1767. Thailand has always had tempestuous relationships with its neighbors. In Bangkok’s National Museum you see war histories displayed in dramatic, violent art, unexpected in a nation whose culture and religion is so non-confrontational.

Religion is indeed important to the Thai. Each of the country’s 77,000 villages apparently has its own wat or temple, some older than Europe’s greatest cathedrals. Guides will proudly take you to see them all unless you clarify your wishes. Classic is Wat Panang Choeng with its huge golden Buddha located 60 miles north of Bangkok. You can come back to the capital by busy highways but more fascinating is to return by river. You can sail back in restaurant boats like Grand Pearl. It has room for 200 passengers in air-conditioned comfort. Or more excitingly: hold on, sometimes with white knuckles, in your private long-tailed boat powered by a truck engine and piloted by a Thai who thinks he’s James Bond. You zigzag along the irrigation canals -- Thailand is “the Venice of the East” -- past native huts on stilts and under signs that proclaim “Cobra show” to arrive at the famous floating market, a photographer’s heaven.

You can shop. Bangkok is known as “a Shopping Paradise, the largest in Asia.” Bargain in bazaars or wander the vast malls, the largest being Siam Paragon that accepts most world currencies. Hungry? What else, a Thai restaurant!

A busy restaurant for lunch is found at the Rose Garden Riverside complex, north on the Ta Chine river that also offers a daily cultural show. But for a more extravagant show and dinner visit the latest attraction in town, Siam Niramit, a beautifully crafted Las Vegas style extravaganza. Lots of restaurants surround the downtown hotels on Silom Road.

You can more romantically anchor a visit to this great city at the tranquil Pan Pacific in the busy business district on Rama 4 Road or at The Oriental considered one of the best hotels in Asia, right on the colorful Chao Praya river, its world-famous Oriental spa across the river by hotel boat. Such hotels are havens in a city that bustles with energy.

Thailand’s prime minister caused unrest but the county’s economic prospects are helping it emerge as a powerhouse in SE Asia. Equally important to visitors is that it’s friendly far-off place that welcomes Americans with the wai, the pressed hands, the bow, and the fabulous ever-present smile.

Tourism Authority of Thailand  http://tourismthailand.org