CRUISES: Queen of the Ocean, Monarch of the Seas 

Story and photography by
Nancy & Eric Anderson 

 

The Caribbean is the most popular cruise destination in the world. It has warm uncomplicated weather, shallow well-behaved seas and an almost bewildering variety of islands, each with a distinctive history and personality. So interesting are the islands, sometimes the ship doesn't matter. Until now, 1992. Today, a mammoth vessel is plying those waters, the flagship of the upscale Royal Caribbean Cruise Line, the Monarch of the Seas. With a gross tonnage of 73, 941 tons, the new arrival upstaged every ship afloat even the SS Norway at 70,941 tons. The Norway slipped away to re-emerge with an added deck and once more the record for the ocean's largest ship.

But the Monarch of the Seas is more than big -- it's beautiful. It's glitzy and alive, bustling with energy and a sense of fun despite its tony trimmings and expensive decor. But it is big. Last month 2,655 guests sailed on one trip, the greatest number of cruise passengers ever carried on a single ship. The Monarch of the Seas dwarfs other liners. She is more than 170 feet high, the same height as the Statue of Liberty. She's also state-of-the-art. Her desalination equipment can produce 700 tons of potable water daily -- “Enough," says Tony O'Prey, the hotel manager, "for one adult to take 11,255 showers, that's a shower a day for more than 30 years." As hotel manager, O'Prey is responsible "for everything on board except the deck and the engine." It's an awesome responsibility. "We get our passengers tired and dirty off the 'plane -- and they've been eating airline food," he says.

"Furthermore," adds Jim Urry, the cruise director, "men get dragged on cruises by their wives. Unwillingly. They believe it'll be too expensive, too organized, too dull. They think it's still sitting down in a deck chair covered with a blanket. Yet at the end of the cruise, it's the husbands who can hardly wait to book another."

Styles do change. Menus offer lighter and healthier choices. Spas are integrated into the activities. Even passengers change. They have become more astute, better educated on how to cruise lines differ. They read up on destinations to enjoy them better. For best shopping deals they do their homework before traveling and have ready price comparisons from American discount houses. But they still don't pace themselves well. "Young people sometimes are so busy with our many activities," says Urry, "that they get off needing a vacation."

SHIP'S LOG

DAY 1

The embarkation lines move smoothly and we come aboard.

Most passengers gasp -- even the sophisticates -- at Monarch's main lobby, the Centrum, which soars five stories high like the heart of a vast luxury hotel, complete even to a white grand piano. Royal Caribbean allows nine hours to board at San Juan. Early passengers are all smiles as they explore special places and hideaway corners they know they'll enjoy in the week to come.

Dinner is casual the first night. The food is fabulous. It's hard to find a cruise line where passengers don't rave about the food but it's obvious the Monarch realizes that all Caribbean ports are the same for all ships -- and as a ship just one year old, she has to make her reputation on meals, entertainment and service.

The first night promises well. Jim Urry, the cruise director puts everyone at ease. He tells us about the fitness and diet Ship Shape programs: "If you don't get involved you could end up the shape of the ship." His energetic young staff gives us a preview of the shows and fitness programs with a vitality that almost rocks the boat. They introduce themselves. One says, "I'm from Norman, Oklahoma." A couple in the audience cheers. "Hey," he says. "I've got a ride home." Later we watch the lights of San Juan fall astern. The ship quivers below us; good.vibrations.

DAY 2 At Sea

Some passengers are up early: 3 1/2 times around the Promenade deck equals one mile. Those wanting to keep in shape have choices of morning stretch class, walk-a-thon, Gutbusters, Fun Fitness, a Challenge Workout (sounds frightening), and the Monarch's Ship-shape gym and program which offers even more variety. Golf driving is available off the Bridge deck, and skeet shooting two decks below. We wonder if some golf widows might not be tempted by that set up. The less active have numerous indoor games: seminars on gems, perfume and cosmetics; instruction in blackjack and other casino games, and acess to a large library--all mahogany wood paneling and shelves with mullion glass doors and padded leather chairs. Well attended is the port lecture given by Tim Temple; it ranges from how to enjoy the islands we'll visit to how to minimize Custom duties on what we'll buy. A spanking new revue, "Live at the Copa" finishes off the day.

DAY3 Martinique

During the early morning we arrive at the French island of Martinique. Soon the ship is deserted: most passengers depart on island tours by bus or taxi; others go snorkeling or enjoy the "Golf Ahoy" program available in every port. Our taxi driver, Hubert, speaks some English. "Living in Martinique is like being on vacation," he says, turning the key on his Mercedes Benz sedan. He drives carefully. We go over speed-bumps--We call those gendarme couche (policeman sleeping)," he says, then we're off.

We reach Balata with its Basilica of Montmartre based on Sacre Coeur in Paris. We drive on past eggplant and mango, coconut and guava, past fields of banana tress and Chinese cabbage, past papaya and breadfruit, and past houses with pens for cockfighting. We visit Saint Pierre, the town rebuilt on its ruins after Mt. Pelee erupted in 1902 wiping out a town of 30,000 people in 10 minutes.

We return to the ship and to one of the highlights of our cruise, Shirley Jones in celebrity concert still wowing audiences with nostalgic numbers from her musicals. We called it a day after that. How could you top such a performance with any other activity?

DAY 4 Barbados

The Monarch again empties quickly as the shore excursions take off in different directions. We leave in a small bus that visits first Gun Hill, a former military signal station, then Villa Nova, an 1834 sugar plantation home, then the 1831 parish church of St. John. Whereas Martinique was French and a bit run-down, Barbados is spiffy British. The streets are clean, not as elegant as Bermuda maybe, but well maintained, and there is a settled order to the country typical of most former British possessions.

In the afternoon, passengers finish off their shopping, join dance class, attend pool games or Bingo, have afternoon tea, or take in the Movie Theatre matinee of a current movie -- or again attend the erudite Tim Temple, the port lecturer, for a discussion on the forthcoming visit to St. Maarten. After dinner comes another knock 'em dead Vegas-style show ending in an "Under the Sea" sequence in black light to the Little Mermaid music. It makes parents in the audience think, "Oh! We should have brought the kids!"

DAY 5 Antigua: Now a less frantic pace.

We have plenty of time in port and we're docked downtown in St. John's, the capital. Shopping is an attraction for many passengers. They come in from all-day shopping in Antigua, knowing the shopping is going to be even better in St. Maarten tomorrow. Yet they skip afternoon tea to hear Tim Temple, shopping guru of the Caribbean, give advice for St. Thomas two days hence. Tonight is a variety show before dinner and the Passenger Talent Show after. We leave the young people to end the day with their Mardi Gras Parade and the nightly midnight buffet.

DAY 6 St. Maarten

We're anchored off shore and tender in with typical Royal Caribbean efficiency. Philipsburg, the capital of Dutch St. Maarten offers a preview of what St. Thomas is like -- an island of shops. As our bus goes round the island on a three hour tour, our guide, Primrose, explains that the Dutch part of the island allows gambling casinos and the French side nude beaches. She says, "You can stay on the Dutch side and lose your money or go to the French side and lose your clothes.” The stores offer an amazing array of items. The RCCL plastic shopping bags that identify our fellow travelers are all dragging close to the ground by the time passengers get back to the ship for the Captain's farewell dinner and another superb show by the Wave Revue dancers and singers.

DAY 7 St. Thomas

Armed with the maps and information on the island which indicate we're Monarch passengers and entitled apparently to special discounts in the stores, we stream out into what may be the prettiest capital in the Caribbean, but to some happy passengers, just our last chance for duty free shopping. But some of us are pensive as well as happy. With San Juan coming up tomorrow, we realize we're at the end of our fantasy week, our cruise on the queen of the ocean, the Monarch of the Seas.